The Indian cocoa bean industry is witnessing a significant transformation, driven by the efforts of local farmers and entrepreneurs. One notable figure in this narrative is George Matthew, a farmer in Kerala. After inheriting a rubber plantation in the 1970s, Dr. Matthew faced substantial challenges due to falling rubber prices, which pushed him to experiment with cocoa cultivation about a decade ago. His initial attempts were fraught with difficulties, as many of the saplings he planted did not survive, and squirrels as well would disrupt his crops by eating the cocoa pods. However, the seemingly destructive behavior of the squirrels turned fortuitous when the seeds they scattered took root and thrived, leading to a thriving plantation of 6,000 cocoa trees across 50 acres. Dr. Matthew considers this advice to be among the best decisions of his career, illustrating the unpredictable nature of farming.
Despite having the right climatic conditions conducive to cultivating cocoa, India only represents approximately 1% of the global production. Cocoa cultivation is heavily dominated by West African nations, particularly Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana, which supply over half the world’s cocoa. Indian farmers find themselves in a precarious situation, providing merely a quarter of the cocoa beans required by local confectionery producers. Renny Jacob, chairman of India Cocoa—an organization that has been involved in cocoa cultivation for over three decades—highlights a significant hurdle faced by Indian growers: the fragmented nature of cocoa farming. These smallholdings limit the attention and expertise essential for cocoa cultivation.
Moreover, the handling of cocoa beans post-harvest is another area where Indian farmers lag. After harvesting, cocoa beans must go through an intricate fermentation process that profoundly impacts their flavor. This crucial stage necessitates the involvement of various microorganisms that contribute to developing the beans’ aroma and taste. Sarin Partrick, CEO of India Cocoa, emphasizes the critical nature of this process, asserting that proper fermentation can elevate the cocoa’s qualities substantially.
To combat these challenges, the Indian government is investing in initiatives aimed at boosting both the quantity and quality of cocoa production. Hybrid cocoa plants that promise higher yields are being developed; in addition, farmers are being trained on modern cultivation and processing techniques. Dr. Femina, a government official focused on cocoa development, notes the vast potential for farmers willing to engage in cocoa farming and reap the benefits of these advancements.
Private companies are also contributing significantly. Dr. Minimol J.S., leading cocoa research at Kerala Agriculture University, collaborates with Cadbury to forge new hybrid cocoa varieties. They have been successful in developing 15 new seed varieties that are disease-resistant and drought-tolerant—traits that are invaluable given the climate’s variability. In fact, while the global average cocoa tree yields about 0.25 kilograms per year, trees in Kerala now achieve yields up to 2.5 kilograms, with some regions like Andhra and Telangana reaching four to five kilograms per tree.
Despite this progress, Indian cocoa production currently falls short of industry demand. In 2023, production figures hit 110,000 tonnes, representing a 40% increase since 2015. However, chocolate and confectionery manufacturers in India require even more cocoa beans, with demand increasing around 15% yearly. The rise of companies like Kocoatrait, founded in 2019 in Chennai, underscores this growing industry. Kocoatrait solely utilizes Indian cacao beans, emphasizing their lower carbon footprint, cost-effectiveness, and unique flavor profiles. Nitin Chordia, the founder, actively engages in educating farmers on enhancing post-harvest techniques, asserting the need for higher quality yields to compete effectively.
In conclusion, while challenges persist, including variability in yield, the evolution of cocoa farming in India presents promising opportunities. Farmers like Dr. Matthew, buoyed by both experience and innovation, anticipate a bright future, one characterized by burgeoning demand and increasing recognition on international platforms for Indian cocoa beans, especially in the fine-flavor segment. The dynamic interplay of local endeavors, agricultural advancements, and changing market demands signals a transformative period for Indian cocoa cultivation.
